The influence of boundary conditions on beach zonation

Abstract

A new data set of beach profiles of the foreshore is used to propose a morphodynamical model based on Ihe alongshore variations on the arriving wave energy. Such changes are due to Ihe boundary conditions, and determine tbe existance of different sectors on the beach. Each one of this sectors follow a celtain pattern on the long-term volume change, the foreshore slope variability. the magnitude of the subaerial sand bars, and the presence/absence of beach cusps. Additional infonnalion on wave conditions and direction of sediment transport is obtained to characterize each sector.